In September 2015 we decided to trek to Machu Picchu in September 2016. We booked our dates with Valencia Travel, Peru and embarked on a year-long training exercise to get fit and lose weight.
Being diabetic, I had to have multiple discussions with the doctor about not using insulin any longer because it prevents weight loss. Finally in January 2016 she allowed me to quit using the insulin at the cost of a .3% rise in my A1Cs.
Mr. Chase and I began a super low carb diet and exercise regime on the weekends which consisted mostly of walking and biking. But because we live at sea level, we knew the trek which crosses Dead Woman's Pass at 13,800 ft, we would suffer.
Our itinerary:
9.2015 - 9.2016 - Pre-Training for Peru
9.23.2016 - Depart for Peru
9.24.2016 - Cuzco Arrival
9.25.2016 - Stop 1: Moray
Stop 2: Maras Saltmines
Stop 3: Chincheros
Stop 4: Saqsaywaman
Stop 5: Chincheros
Stop 6: Tambomcay
Stop 7: Cristo Blanco
Stop 8: Puca Pucara
Stop 9: Coricancha - Santo Domingo
9.26.2016 - Stop 1: Ollantaytambo
Stop 2: Tunupa Restaurant near Ollantaytambo
Stop 3: Pisaq
9.27.2016 Inca Trail (Inka Camino) to Machu Picchu
9.29.2016 Machu Picchu
10.1.2016 Cooking with Sandra (Peruvian Food)
SEPTEMBER 2015 - SEPTEMBER 2016
We trained by climbing mountains here in the Pacific Northwest: St Helens, Adams and Rainier in order to acclimate better to the higher elevations in Peru. Here we are trekking throughout 2016 in preparation for the Inka Camino.
SEPTEMBER 23, 2016
We traveled to Peru by American Airlines: PDX-DFW-LIM-CUS. Here we are in Business Class from Dallas to Lima.
After spending all night on the plane, trying to get some sleep, I had to have a latte upon arrival in Lima. Unfortunately, they don't use "half and half" and the regular milk one was not really a latte but just a coffee with milk stirred in.
We finally made it to Cusco about 23 hours after we left, the day before.
We arrived at our hotel and unpacked and went out in search of a decent meal for lunch.
SEPTEMBER 24, 2016
Once we got settled in our room, we showered, took a quick nap and then headed out to see the old city.
We started by walking to the Plaza del Armas, the main plaza in Cusco. There are three big plazas, quite close to one another.
A judicial building of some sort on the Ave Sol, close to our hotel.
Storefronts
The bank across the street from our hotel.
Typical Cusco Neighborhood built on the side of a mountain.
Plaza del Armas - Catedral de Cusco
Shops and Restaurants
Santa Catalina
A religious parade occurs on the anniversary of whichever church is being celebrated
We finally picked a place for lunch!
Mr. Chase deciding on the alpaca
Alpaca, quinoa with cheese and stuffed mushrooms and asparagas
Stop 1 - Moray
From Wikipedia:
Moray or Muray (Quechua[1]) is an archaeological site in Peru approximately 50 km (31 mi) northwest of Cuzco on a high plateau at about 3,500 meters (11,500 ft) and just west of the village of Maras. The site contains unusual Inca ruins, mostly consisting of several terraced circular depressions, the largest of which is approximately 30 m (98 ft) deep. As with many other Inca sites, it also has an irrigation system.
The purpose of these depressions is uncertain, but their depth, design, and orientation with respect to wind and sun creates a temperature difference of as much as 15 °C (27 °F) between the top and the bottom. It is possible that this large temperature difference was used by the Inca to study the effects of different climatic conditions on crops. Speculation about the site has led to discussion about Moray as an Inca agricultural experiment station. Its micro climatic conditions and other significant characteristics led to the use of the site as a center for the ancient study of domestication, acclimatization, and hybridization of wild vegetable species that were modified or adapted for human consumption.
This was the building foundation where the agricultural engineers worked
Rolando - our driver
Stop 2 - Maras Saltmines
We took a half day tour of the Maras-Moray valley. These photos are of the Salinera Maras (saltmines of Maras).
Maras is a town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, 40 kilometers north of Cuzco, Peru. The town is well known for its nearby salt evaporation ponds, in use since 3000 BC. The salt-evaporation ponds are up-slope, less than a kilometer west of the town.
It was overcast the day we traveled out to Maras
The way the people live in and among the mountains is interesting
From the road above, the salt mines have a strange appearance.
Traveling down to the salt mines
The highly salty water emerges at a spring, a natural outlet of the underground stream. The flow is directed into an intricate system of tiny channels constructed so that the water runs gradually down onto the several hundred ancient terraced ponds. Almost all the ponds are less than four meters square in area, and none exceeds thirty centimeters in depth. All are necessarily shaped into polygons with the flow of water carefully controlled and monitored by the workers. The altitude of the ponds slowly decreases, so that the water may flow through the myriad branches of the water-supply channels and be introduced slowly through a notch in one sidewall of each pond. The proper maintenance of the adjacent feeder channel, the side walls and the water-entry notch, the pond's bottom surface, the quantity of water, and the removal of accumulated salt deposits requires close cooperation among the community of users. It is agreed among local residents and pond workers that the cooperative system was established during the time of the Incas, if not earlier. As water evaporates from the sun-warmed ponds, the water becomes supersaturated and salt precipitates as various size crystals onto the inner surfaces of a pond's earthen walls and on the pond's earthen floor. The pond's keeper then closes the water-feeder notch and allows the pond to go dry. Within a few days the keeper carefully scrapes the dry salt from the sides and bottom, puts it into a suitable vessel, reopens the water-supply notch, and carries away the salt. Color of the salt varies from white to a light reddish or brownish tan, depending on the skill of an individual worker. Some salt is sold at a gift store nearby.
The salt mines traditionally have been available to any person wishing to harvest salt. The owners of the salt ponds must be members of the community, and families that are new to the community wishing to propitiate a salt pond get the one farthest from the community. The size of the salt pond assigned to a family depends on the family's size. Usually there are many unused salt pools available to be farmed. Any prospective salt farmer need only locate an empty currently unmaintained pond, consult with the local informal cooperative, learn how to keep a pond properly within the accepted communal system, and start working.
Fredi Rupa, our guide
Different colors of salt
The trail down from the city of Maras to the salt mines.
SEPTEMBER 25, 2016Stop 3: Chincheros
After Maras, we headed for Chincheros - a district outside of Cusco and visited the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco. Here we were able to see traditional Peruvian (Inca and other peoples) weaving. So much fun. I have videos but they won't upload (darn!) - they are hilarious.
Potatoes (top) and Corn (bottom) - many different varieties grow in Peru.
Llamas
The ladies getting ready for a wedding
weavers with Fredi
Traditional dress with the most beautiful hats
Explaining how the wool is cleaned and dyed
The parasite of the cactus plant produces a red dye that will never fade. Lime juice is added to the boiling water and wool.
September 25, 2016
Stop 4: Saqsaywaman
Taken from Wikipedia: Saksaywaman, Saqsaywaman, Sasawaman, Saksawaman,Sacsahuayman, Sasaywaman or Saksaq Waman(Quechua language, waman falcon or variable hawk,hispanicized spellings Sacsayhuamán, Sacsayhuaman, Sacsahuaman, Saxahuaman and others) is a citadel on the northern outskirts of the city of Cusco, Peru, the historic capital of the Inca Empire. Sections were first built by the Killke culture about 1100; they had occupied the area since 900. The complex was expanded and added to by the Inca from the 13th century; they built dry stone walls constructed of huge stones. The workers carefully cut the boulders to fit them together tightly without mortar. The site is at an altitude of 3,701 m (12,142 ft).
The rock walls are supposed to be lightning - so I went out to Google Maps and found it on the map - sure enough - very long lightning bolts...
to give perspective, look how tall these stones are! Mr. Chase is 6'2"
Rolando - our driver
Stop 5: Q'enqo
Taken from Wikipedia:
Q'inqu (Quechua for "zig-zag", Hispanicized spellings Ccenco, Quenco, also Kenko, Qenko, Q'enko, Qenqo) is an archaeological site in the Sacred Valley of Peru located in the Cusco Region, Cusco Province, Cusco District, about 6 km north east of Cusco. The site was declared a Cultural Heritage(Patrimonio Cultural) of the Cusco Region by the National Institute of Culture.
It is one of the largest wak'as (holy places) in the Cusco Region. Many wak'as were based on naturally occurring rock formations. It was believed to be a place where sacrifices and mummification took place.
The niches are barely visible along the top of the wall - it is supposed that this wall was much taller and the niches held idols, ingots, silver/gold treasures or were even burial chambers.
Burial Chambers
Sacrificial stone
Inside the temple
stairs to sacrificial stone
Cusco
Towards the east... rain is coming!
September 25, 2016
Stop 6: Tambomacay
Wikipedia says:
Tampu Mach'ay (Quechua tampu inn, guest house, mach'aycave, "guest house cave", also spelled Tambo Mach'ay, Tambomachay, Tambomach'ay, Tampumachay, Tanpumachay, where machay means "drunkenness", "to get drunk" or "a spindle packed with thread") is an archaeological site associated with the Inca Empire, located near Cusco, Peru. An alternate Spanish name is El Baño del Inca ("the bath of the Inca").
It consists of a series of aqueducts, canals and waterfalls that run through the terraced rocks. The function of the site is uncertain: it may have served as a military outpost guarding the approaches to Cusco, as a spa resort for the Incan political elite, or both.
Wild pigs
Three small baths
Two waterfalls (yin and yang)
Niches for god offerings
Why do I feel so poorly? Oh - we're at 12, 392 ft.
September 25, 2016Stop 7: Cristo Blanco
The white Christ is high above Cusco on one of the buttes overlooking the city.
Stop 8: Puca Pucara
Puka Pukara (Quechua puka red, pukara fortress, "red fortress", hispanicized spellings Pucapucara, Puca Pucara, Puca Pucará) is a site of military ruins in Peru situated in the Cusco Region, Cusco Province, Cusco District, near Cusco. This fort is made of large walls, terraces, and staircases and was part of defense of Cusco in particular and the Inca Empire in general.
The name probably comes from the red color of the rocks at dusk. Puka Pukara is an example of military architecture that also functioned as an administrative center.
Stop 9 - Coricancha - Santo Domingo
Taken from Wikipedia:
Coricancha, Qurikancha or QuriKancha (Quechua qurigold, kancha enclosure or enclosed place, yard, a frame, or wall that encloses, also spelled Coricancha), originally named Inti Kancha (Quechua inti sun) or Inti Wasi (Quechua for "sun house"), was the most important temple in the Inca Empire, dedicated primarily to Inti, the Sun God. It was one of the most revered temples of the capital city of Cusco.
Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui rebuilt Cusco and the House of the Sun, enriching it with more oracles and edifices, and adding plates of fine gold. He provided vases of gold and silver for the Mama-cunas, nuns, to use in the veneration services. Finally, he took the bodies of the seven deceased Incas, and enriched them with masks, head-dresses, medals, bracelets, sceptres of gold, placing them on a golden bench.
The walls were once covered in sheets of solid gold, and its adjacent courtyard was filled with golden statues. Spanish reports tell of its opulence that was "fabulous beyond belief". When the Spanish required the Inca to raise a ransom in gold for the life of the leader Atahualpa, most of the gold was collected from Coricancha.
The Spanish colonists built the Church of Santo Domingo on the site, demolishing the temple and using its foundations for the cathedral. Construction took most of a century. This is one of numerous sites where the Spanish incorporated Inca stonework into the structure of a colonial building. Major earthquakes severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone, still stand due to their sophisticated stone masonry. Nearby is an underground archaeological museum, which contains numerous interesting pieces, including mummies, textiles, and sacred idols from the site. The site now also includes the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo.
Located right in the center of Cusco is the Coricancha Inca site, with the Santo Domingo church built over it.
Temple of the Sun - you can see all the way through all the rooms
The Dominicans built right over the Inca ruins.
A little damage shows from an earthquake
Ollantaytambo
From Wikipedia:
Ollantaytambo is a town and an Inca archaeological site in southern Peru some 60 kilometers northwest of the city of Cusco. It is located at an altitude of 2,792 meters (9,160 feet) above sea level in the district of Ollantaytambo, province of Urubamba,Cusco region. During the Inca Empire, Ollantaytambo was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti who conquered the region, built the town and a ceremonial center. At the time of the Spanish conquest of Peru it served as a stronghold for Manco Inca Yupanqui, leader of the Inca resistance. Nowadays it is an important tourist attraction on account of its Inca buildings and as one of the most common starting points for the four-day, three-night hike known as the Inca Trail.
Around the mid-15th century, the Inca emperor Pachacuti conquered and razed Ollantaytambo; the town and the nearby region were incorporated into his personal estate.[3] The emperor rebuilt the town with sumptuous constructions and undertook extensive works of terracing and irrigation in the Urubamba Valley; the town provided lodging for the Inca nobility while the terraces were farmed by yanakuna, retainers of the emperor.After Pachacuti's death, the estate came under the administration of his panaqa, his family clan.
During the Spanish conquest of Peru Ollantaytambo served as a temporary capital for Manco Inca, leader of the native resistance against the conquistadors. He fortified the town and its approaches in the direction of the former Inca capital of Cusco, which had fallen under Spanish domination.In 1536, on the plain of Mascabamba, near Ollantaytambo, Manco Inca defeated a Spanish expedition, blocking their advance from a set of high terraces and flooding the plain. Despite his victory, however, Manco Inca did not consider his position tenable, so the following year he withdrew to the heavily forested site of Vilcabamba,[9] where he established the Neo-Inca State.
In 1540, the native population of Ollantaytambo was assigned in encomienda to Hernando Pizarro.
In the 19th century the Inca ruins at Ollantaytambo attracted the attention of several foreign explorers, among them, Clements Markham, Ephraim Squier,Charles Wiener and Ernst Middendorf published accounts of their findings.
A view of the Urubamba Valley below - heading for Ollantaytambo
Peruvian rest stop above the Sacred Valley
Roadside buildings
The funny little "cholo" taxis are everywhere!
Roadside Niches
The main square (plaza)
First glimpse of the ruins at Ollantaytambo
Peruvian treasures for sale; and no city scene is without the sleeping dog in the middle of the walkway.
The streets in Ollantaytambo are original Inca - from the 1300-1400s.
September 26, 2016
Tunupa
According to local myth, a representation of the messenger of Viracocha ('The Creator of Civilization') named Wiracochan or Tunupa is shown in the small village of Ollantaytambo, southern Peru. Ollantaytambo located in the department of Cusco makes up a chain of small villages along the Urubamba Valley. Also known as the Sacred Valley of the Incas, it was an important stronghold of the Incan Empire. Facing the ancient Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo in the rock face of Cerro Pinkuylluna is the 140 meter high figure of Wiracochan. The angry-looking formation of his face is made up of indentations that form the eyes and mouth, whilst a protruding carved rock denotes the nose. Inca ruins built on top of the face are also considered to represent a crown on his head. Artists' impressions of the rock face also include a heavy beard and a large sack upon his shoulders.
The face of Viracocha at Ollantaytambo can be captured as noted
by Fernando and Edgar Elorrieta Salazar. Wiracochan, the pilgrim preacher of
knowledge, the master knower of time, is described as a person with superhuman
power, a tall man, with short hair, dressed like a priest or an astronomer with
tunic and a bonnet with four pointed corners.
According to travel writer Paul Jones, "This incredible myth of a
Viracocha spreads throughout South America and beyond. This ancient mystical
God, who by local legend rose from the middle of Lake Titicaca to create mankind was and is still
today truly respected. The rock carving at Ollantaytambo is a striking reminder
of the spiritual connections the Incas had with the Andes."
Tunupa's face carved into the mountain overlooking Ollantaytambo.
Fredi took us to this great restaurant (buffet) to have lunch. It was very cool inside - a huge relief from the heat. The food was excellent, the music outstanding, and the view very scenic. Really enjoyed this treat after a day of climbing the archaeological site at Ollantaytambo.
Meats on the left, desserts on the right - further down - salads, soups, breads and side dishes.
Rolando, our driver and Mr. Chase at the best view in the place. Excellent!
The musicians playing all sorts of pan flutes - I can't upload the video - so beautiful, though.
Pisaq
From Wikipedia:
Pisac is perhaps best known for its Incan ruins, known as Inca PÃsac, which lie
atop a hill at the entrance to the valley. The ruins are separated along the
ridge into four groups: P'isaqa, Inti Watana, Qalla Q'asa, and Kinchiraqay. Inti Watana group includes the Temple of the Sun,
baths, altars, water fountains, a ceremonial platform, and an inti watana, a volcanic outcrop
carved into a "hitching post for the Sun"
(or Inti). The angles of its base
suggest that it served to define the changes of the seasons. Qalla Q'asa, which is built
onto a natural spur and overlooks the valley, is known as the citadel.
The Inca constructed agricultural
terraces on the steep hillside,
which are still in use today. They created the terraces by hauling richer
topsoil by hand from the lower lands. The terraces enabled the production of
surplus food, more than would normally be possible at altitudes as high as
11,000 feet.
With military, religious, and agricultural structures, the site
served at least a triple purpose. Researchers believe that PÃsac defended the
southern entrance to the Sacred Valley, while Choquequirao defended the western entrance, and the
fortress at Ollantaytambo the northern. Inca Pisac controlled a
route which connected the Inca Empire with the border of the rain forest.
The sanctuary of Huanca,
site of a sacred shrine, is also
near the village. Pilgrims travel to the shrine every September.
One of its more notable features was a large pisonay tree, which dominated the central
plaza (it was destroyed by a 2013 thunderstorm).
The Inca constructed agricultural
terraces on the steep hillside,
which are still in use today. They created the terraces by hauling richer
topsoil by hand from the lower lands. The terraces enabled the production of
surplus food, more than would normally be possible at altitudes as high as
11,000 feet.
With military, religious, and agricultural structures, the site
served at least a triple purpose. Researchers believe that PÃsac defended the
southern entrance to the Sacred Valley, while Choquequirao defended the western entrance, and the
fortress at Ollantaytambo the northern. Inca Pisac controlled a
route which connected the Inca Empire with the border of the rain forest.
The sanctuary of Huanca,
site of a sacred shrine, is also
near the village. Pilgrims travel to the shrine every September.
One of its more notable features was a large pisonay tree, which dominated the central
plaza (it was destroyed by a 2013 thunderstorm).
The area below is so large I had to take several Google Map images to show what it looked like from above:
These caves were discovered in this century and contained the remains of the Incas along with silver and gold treasures.
Leaving Pisaq - and seeing the Urubamba Valley below - looking towards Ollantaytambo at the other end.
Inka Trail
Please go here to learn more about the Inka Trail - there is just too much to write here. You basically begin the trail at 82 KM outside of Ollantaytambo and trek across 2 mountain ranges to Machu Picchu. Here are some photos of our journey.
Two friendly villagers (Flor on the left, and Naphtali on the right) acquired our folding chairs and chatted with me about the village, school and girly things.
September 29-30
Machu Picchu
Google Maps provides some excellent imagery and street views - you can basically stand anywhere at MP and get a 360 degree view on Google Maps - how cool is that?
Enjoy and imagine yourself at the top of the world with us...such a spectacular place, no wonder it's one of the Wonders of the World.
September 30, 2016
Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Puebo)
Our hotel
Having lunch as the train pulled in and hundreds of people arrived bringing goods from Cusco to sell.
Lunch!
Going back to Ollantaytambo via train - then a driver will pick us up there and take us to Cusco.
We started the day off by meeting Fredi and his sister Sandra at the San Pedro Market - where we would be selecting the food to cook that day. Sandra was going to show us how to make Chicha Morada (Corn Beer - non-alcoholic) from black corn. She also showed us how to make Cerviche using a white fish and Lomo Saltado using Alpaca.
Peru has something like 30 types of potatoes - I think we saw most of them at the San Pedro Market the morning of October 1st.
Sandra picking out parsley.
Sandra getting the tomatoes
Above the tomatoes is the yucca root
Look at these marvelous loaves of bread - slightly sweet & very yummy
At Fredi's house, Sandra shows us how to make the cerviche
